George Gardner a 58-year-old Ridgeway, Colo., resident, educator, husband and father of two was found dead by companion guides early Sunday morning beneath the Lower Exum Ridge route he was thought to have been climbing. the fun-loving attitude home. Angus M. Thuermer Jr. is the natural resources reporter for WyoFile. Get up-to-the-minute news sent straight to your device. Please reload the page and try again. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of economic and business news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. We do not know, and will never know, the cause of his death. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a spotlight on Jackson Hole's crime, justice and emergency news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Sign up to receive a monthly e-newsletter with a selection of photography and video from theJackson Hole News&Guide. It was not something that was over and above him in any way, Turner said. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of trending local news headlines from the Jackson Hole News&Guide. Welcome to the Exum Guide Service and School of Mountaineering in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Guides and clients went to sleep as the headlamp party descended. All data is private and will not be shared with third parties. The guide was highly certified, highly trained in the tying of that knot, Ysebaert said. Bob's home goes to affordable housing, Montana bill would let students misgender classmates, US skiers to don climate change-themed race suits at worlds. Did the NPS do anything other than prepare an incident report during the last three deaths? I always thought of Gary as a rock, a constant. From above, Falk tried to flip the jammed rope and ATC to free them. Falk fell approximately 2,400 feet from the Owen-Spalding Rappel into Valhalla Canyon, near the Black Ice Couloir. 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Get an email notification whenever someone contributes to the discussion. Park rangers on the valley floor also organized for a response, summoning a helicopter. Professional climbers would find the moves routine rather than exhausting, albeit without room for error for a solo climber. appreciated. The knot always needs to be inspected every use.. He was immediately projected outward and plunged to his death, the park report said. Chuck Pratt. Exum and the JH Mountain Guides have had deaths, near misses, and injuries over the years. anything. Subscribe to our free newsletter and get the latest stories straight to your inbox every Tuesday. 0. More Details. It was no surprise they got married.. but at the time of his death, life was feeling pretty complete and satisfying. Hopefully that isnt the case here for the employer. Its not practical for [Exum] to inspect it each and every time.. "It was perfect weather. To support or donate to Kate and the boys, see the GoFundMe link with more information here. Guides organized, made phone calls, and set out for the mountain. Theres going to be things that we can do in the future that will reduce our risk.. The sound came from the direction of the Grand, but Santelices said he could see no rocks coming out of the Stettner Couloir, a source for rockfall. Another Exum guide assisted the clients Towering above Jackson Hole at 13,770 feet, the Grand Teton is one of North Americas most famous and coveted summits. This would be consistent with leaning out on a lanyard that fails, the report said. Climbing guide services and other businesses that employ workers in the backcountry might not all be aware that OSHA has standards they are required to meet, said Alex Kosseff, executive director of the American Mountain Guides Association. Guides prepared dinner before 5 p.m. About that time, Gardner announced he was going to solo the Lower Exum Ridge route on the Grand, a somewhat common practice among guides, depending on their ability. Promotional Rates were found for your code. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of private, public and continuing education news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Gary was always trying to figure out what worked, Kate Thank you for the work and excellent details provided in this report Mr. Thuermer. Exum Guide, George Gardner Dies in Fall 25th Jul 2008 In the evening of July 19th, Exum Mountain Guides lost our beloved friend and fellow guide, George Gardner. He was also a long-time climbing instructor and mountain guide with Exum Mountain Guides in the Grand Tetons . 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There was no one better at taking care of their clients., The process with OSHA was very positive, Patridge said. down, and the Teton Interagency Dispatch was notified around 10:30 a.m. Keep it clean. Several began to ascend the Lower Exum while others went higher up the peak intending to descend the ridge. That will happen annually. guides with clients up on the Grand. Thank You. A mountain guide died after falling into a canyon at Wyomings Grand Teton National Park, authorities said. Thats why climbing with protection is so popular. Glen Exum first climbed the Grand Teton with Paul Petzoldt in 1929. In 2 days of group instruction, our climbers are taught all of the skills necessary to fully participate during their 2-day Grand Teton climb. Keith even 16mm tubular tape has a breaking strain of 14kn bits of your body will pop before that breaks !! The Exum Mountain Guide company says Gary Falk, 42, was leading a group down from a successful ascent of . 6:17 AM EDT, Sun July 24, 2016, Wyoming's Grand Teton is the highest peak in the Teton Range with an elevation of 13,770 feet, Gary Falk, 42, died after falling into Grand Teton National Park canyon while leading group to summit. In the event of an injury, we will share any medical information you have provided with appropriate medical personnel providing care. Tests show when water knots made with 9/16-inch webbing are repeatedly loaded and unloaded, one tail will eventually be pulled through the knot. In the case of the worker, by a bear or bears, the employer had to develop a. and make it available to other companies. and paramount importance to him.. One of the most prolific Exum mountain guides died Saturday evening while solo climbing a route on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton. But light from a set of headlamps appeared on the descent route from the peak and those in the camp figured it was Gardner, perhaps aiding a late party down. He made us feel protected and safe so that we could shine in While preparing a rappel station But because of a last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, the guide found himself short one belay device. racist or sexually-oriented language. However rockfall from above or a falling cliet could take down an untied guide. Did you encounter any technical issues? Falk had extensive climbing, skiing and guiding experience, according to his bio on Exums website. Sign up to receive a daily e-newsletter with a selection of local, state and regional news headlines from theJackson Hole Daily. By one account, he made more trips up the Grand for Exum last year than any other guide. Teton Range, Wyoming. Soon after, they descended into the gully west of the route to find Gardner dead. It is something AMGA has become aware of largely as a result of this tragic accident, he said. By one account, he made more trips up the Grand for Exum last year than any other guide. A Jackson Hole climbing guide service paid a $7,350 fine for safety violations after state officials investigated the 2016 death of a guide who fell from the Grand Teton. This was a guides error. Never really took that many pictures of him because I thought hed always be around, Bill Grasse, Falks The webbing was part of his personal gear and not supplied by Exum. With ski fatalities, bear maulings and climbing falls, Teton County is unique in many of those circumstances., Federal rules, which Wyoming enforces, require employers to protect their employees according to certain standards. Teewinot is his ode to forty years in the mountains that he loves. Other than this, we will not share any contact information that you give to us. told the Jackson Hole Daily the company employs between 60 and 80 guides, and on any given day in July or August could have three to four OSHA agreed that Falk knew how to properly tie a water knot. Exum Mountain Guides paid the fine and resolved two citations after an investigation by Wyomings Occupational Safety and Health Administration. There was an error and we couldn't process your subscription. the Reverse Fitz Traverse, Killer Mountain: Death and Rescue on Nanga Parbat in Winter. Falk was attached to the anchor slings with a four-foot tether and probably leaning out when his knot failed, rangers believe. He had been working for Exum Mountain Guides for 12 years, according to a statement. accounts or history behind an article. A tall, debonair man, Mr. Exum established one of the routes to the peak of Grand Teton in 1931. A Jackson Hole climbing guide service paid a $7,350 fine for safety violations after state officials investigated the 2016 death of a guide who fell from the Grand Teton. "He was someone who was passionate about being the best teacher and guide he could be," Santelices said, "especially with kids.". Charles Marshall Pratt (March 5, 1939 - December 16, 2000) was an American rock climber known for big wall climbing first ascents in Yosemite Valley. Exum President Nat Patridge stated in a press release, Gary FalkRemembering a Life of Love and Adventure, Tenzing Norgay Biography to Become Netflix Film, Winners of the 2021 GRIT&ROCK First Ascent Grants Announced, Interview: Sean Villanueva ODriscoll on the Solo First Ascent of The Moonwalk, a.k.a. * No personal attacks, profanity, discriminatory language or threats. Exum is an authorized concession of the National Park Service and a nondiscriminatory permittee of multiple US Forest Service districts. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. About the Jackson Hole News and Guide Staff. He was 88. Theres going to be things that we can do in the future that will reduce our risk. Several began to ascend the Lower Exum while others went higher up the peak intending to descend the ridge. One of the most prolific Exum mountain guides died Saturday evening while solo climbing a route on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton. You knew it would be a success, Harlan says, adding, Safety was of utmost They can, for example, be untied, threaded through bolts or around trees, and re-tied quickly without using up much sling length in the knot itself. "We are amazingly busy," says Exum co-owner Al Read. As far as we can see, he was not working for Exum, Turner said of the excursion. According to the Jackson Hole News&Guide, 42-year-old Gary Falk died after falling 2,400 feet from the top of the Owen-Spalding rappell into Valhalla Canyon. Choose wisely! Dont. No personal attacks. Contact him at angus@wyofile.com or (307) Park officials said the death is being investigated. Dealing with a worker safety agency can sometimes lead down a black hole of nightmarish bureaucracy, an experience that is likely the antithesis to what a mountain guide generally offers. But also its clear, too, that what we need is a good inspection program of all the gear that the guides are using. Al Read, the president of the guide service, said Mr. Exum had introduced courses to teach students technical skills. , made public by a FOIA request filed by the Jackson Hole News&Guide. But also its clear, too, that what we need is a good inspection program of all the gear that the guides are using., That will happen annually. Darkness came and some of the guides became a little worried. Join Outside+ to get Climbing magazine, access to exclusive content, thousands of training plans, and more. Your account has been registered, and you are now logged in. OSHAs goals are to spread word about new safety information learned from accidents. Be truthful. The water knot, also known as a ring bend or an overhand follow-through bend, may still have a place in mountaineering, despite its flaws. publications. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of inspiring stories about the faces and places of Jackson Hole from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Such versatility and efficiency in the alpine environment is a safety strategy, Patridge said. This is the name that will be used to identify you within the system. The probe was prompted by the death of guide Gary Falk. slang when identifying political parties. None of the citations related directly to Gary and the way Gary fell, said Nat Patridge, president of Exum Mountain Guides. Updated From their base in Grand Teton National Park near Jenny Lake, Exum Mountain Guides provide guided climbing trips throughout . WyoFile aims to provide you with the tools to make informed decisions by producing independent, unbiased reporting that is free and accessible to all. But OSHA, Ysebaert said, doesnt have standards for preventing bear attacks.. He is a veteran Wyoming reporter and editor with more than 35 years experience in Wyoming. This is the name that will be used to identify you within the system. The takeaway is to inspect your knots on a regular basis and use plenty of tail. We will update this story as new information becomes available. He could probably have cinched it down a little bi t more, but it has more than enough tail. "I dont know a single human being that didn't love George.". An Exum mountain guide perished Saturday in Grand Teton National Park while leading a group of clients down the Grand Teton after completing a successful summit bid. It could fail if shock loaded. Knotted slings and tethers are more versatile than permanently sewn versions of the equipment because they can be untied to be employed in a variety of configurations. They had a magical The exact circumstances of Gardner's fall may remain a mystery, Turner said. In recent years Wyoming OSHA has investigated the death of an ecology field worker slain and eaten by a bear or bears, a ski patroller killed in an avalanche and another patroller who died in a fall. Invalid password or account does not exist. We rely on loyal members like you to sustain our reporting and grow the WyoFile community. Your real name will be displayed next to your photo for comments, blog posts, and more! Exum conducted gear training and assessment each year but they just had not formalized it and were counting on experienced staff, the settlement agreement states. Park rangers believe that during a rappel procedure the knot in a loop . A teacher, he was known for the Himalaya semester he taught for Sterling College in Vermont. About the Jackson Hole News and Guide Staff, Climbing guide George Gardner dies on Grand. Discovery Company. Rules can be specific regarding scaffoldings, hard hats and safety harnesses. Even though the server responded OK, it is possible the submission was not processed. Glen Exum first climbed the Grand Teton with Paul Petzoldt in 1929. the park rangers who investigated his death believe that the water knot of his personal anchor, a tied loop of webbing, failed, and Falk fell from He had several operations and largely withdrew from guiding and climbing. Grand Teton National Park climbing rangers believe a knot Falk tied to make a tether from nylon webbing slipped and sent him plummeting 2,500 feet to his death. But its two ends were not tied together as they needed to be to form a tether. A Warner Bros. If Corbets Couloir was a person, he would flirt with your wife, flip you the bird and then drop the line that youve been preparing for all season without a moments hesitation. Angus M. Thuermer Jr. is the natural resources reporter for WyoFile. We rely on readers like you to keep our reporters in the field unearthing the stories that matter to you. Fellow guides gave Gardner's departure little thought, but Christian Santelices heard the sound of falling rocks that evening. comment to let us know of abusive posts. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of private, public and continuing education news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. God bless his family and co-workers, this is a terrible loss for the community and I offer my sincere condolences. It was perfect weather. Many of the employers in Teton County come across hazards that are more unpredictable, than those found in more traditional work settings, Ysebaert said. connection from the get-go, Harlan recalls. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of arts and entertainment headlines from the Scene section ofJackson Hole News&Guide. This photo of Owen-Spalding rappel station taken a few weeks after Gary Falks death shows the point from which he fell. Refrain from using negative | Bob's home goes to affordable housing, Montana bill would let students misgender classmates, US skiers to don climate change-themed race suits at worlds. rather than denigrating someone with an opposing view. Exum is an authorized concession of the National Park Service and a nondiscriminatory permittee of multiple US Forest Service districts. Refrain from using negative anything. Park rangers on the valley floor also organized for a response, summoning a helicopter. ''Glenn's idea was that people ought to be responsible,'' Mr. Williamson said. Gary Falk, 42, was guiding a group of clients down from an ascent of the park's highest peak when he fell. All Exum operations were cancelled for Sunday in honor of Falk, the News & Guide reports. He acted the same way with his children as with his clients and with everyone. Wyomings soon-to-drop shed hunting rules set new precedent, Wyoming trans athlete ban advances to House floor, Wyo ecologist-turned-activist tapped for top U.S. You have permission to edit this article. "What happened we don't and will never know," he said. Change your default forum handle here! Some just hold on to the belay rope. Rangers and fellow guides recovered the climbers body Sunday. Falk, 42, died in a fall from the 13,775-foot Grand Teton on July 23, when he was descending the peak with young clients from a group called City Kids. One of the most prolific Exum mountain guides died Saturday evening while solo climbing a route on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton. Skiers and snowboarders that accidentally make eye contact with Corbets Couloir on Jackson Holes aerial tram experience instant spine-tingling vertigo and nausea. Its not practical for them [the company] to inspect [gear] each and every time, or before each climbing trip, Ysebaert said. . in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and the outdoor community at large. Use the Report link on each publications. A second citation said Exum did not have a written plan to limit guides exposure to bloodborne pathogens should they render first aid. Falk leaves behind his wife, Kate, and two young sons, Anders, 4, and Donovan, 9 months. Very informative and useful report. Make a donation today and help us keep digging. Visit the Exum website for more information. "As far as we can see, he was not working for Exum," Turner said of the excursion. *Outside memberships are billed annually. Two rangers were flown to the scene in a GTNP helicopter to investigate, and after making contact with Falks remains, they called in a recovery team to extricate the body of the highly-respected 12-year veteran mountain guide. He is a veteran Wyoming reporter and editor with more than 35 years of experience. Use your real name: Anonymous commenting is not If the knot (bend) is loosely tied and not backed up, it can fail the FIRST time it is loaded. He was a devoted husband and father. Share with us. Create a password that only you will remember. $4.99/month $3.75/month*. Knot failed, rangers believe that during a rappel procedure the knot in a loop tried! Environment is a veteran Wyoming reporter and editor with more information here and resolved two citations after an by! The employer loss for the employer will be used to identify you the... Notified around 10:30 a.m. keep it clean that we exum mountain guides death see, he was immediately outward... 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